@groovestomp this is one way to think about going sideways into a turn. I'm searching for a diagram for ‘drift-braking' I mentioned...
@groovestomp ...slow down and position the car well for the exit. Pretty sure that nothing good will happen if you try this in a grippy turn :D
@groovestomp oh and also, it only applies to FWD / AWD. I don't know anything about the RWD except that they're really unforgiving. :)
@jonn Thanks!
I got my wheel configured last night. It was quick. My pedals keep moving around, though - I need a proper wheel stand!
For that matter a better racing wheel too. 🙂
I'll get some practice in and give you a little better competition next time. Hopefully.
@groovestomp do you have G27 or I'm misremembering? I think G27 is good and actually when I thought that G29 is bad and was talking to community members, they said that G29 is literally one of the best wheels out there and that unless I have like 10K hours under my belt and I need something very specific from my setup, I don't really need to "upgrade".
If you can take a photo of your setup, I can maybe suggest something, I'm always racing without the rig since I move around a lot, but for me two things made the largest impact:
1. moving the screen as close to my eyes as possible and then using a calculator to determine the correct FOV https://dinex86.github.io/FOV-Calculator/ (the correct FOV was way smaller than I thought it would be and I ended up way faster)
2. removing those stupid vertical bar clips that go by default with the Logitech wheel and clipping all the way tightly to the desk's edge. I would pull the wheel from the table sometimes which would ruin a run due to these vertical bars. When I removed those, I can't remember the wheel sliding off ever.
@jonn I *used* to have a G27 with a Wheel Stand Pro.
Now I have an XBox 360 Racing Wheel. 😅
And a chair with wheels on it!
Of course when I raced with you I just had the wheel in my lap. LOL.
But this is a beginner wheel kinda designed for that style of ad-hoc pick up and play.
@groovestomp oh, sorry.
Yeah, getting a Logitech G29 is a good idea.
I have a very slidey chair which I fix dead into place with just two boxes. Right now I'm using tiny boxes from Oculus lol.
@jonn Do you race with VR? That seems like it would be the way to go if you have a strong enough gaming PC.
I can afford the gear, the problem is justifying it and storing it. 😬
@groovestomp I'm a second slower in VR, but I like it.
I would argue that w/ VR it's less gear, not more, because you don't need screens or a superultrawide to race with others.
@groovestomp this is my setup. Monitor arm wins. The wheel is kept in the closet and I think I can set up in under 5 minutes.
@jonn Nice. The monitor arm is great.
Do your pedals move on you?
@groovestomp absolutely not, actually! The trick is to always clean rubber.
@jonn Totally my thinking, too.
The biggest problems being the expense of VR and the power needed to drive it.
Initially I was thinking of building a dedicated Forza Motorsport 4 rig. A smallish 24" display permanently mounted to a racing seat with fixed mounts for the pedals and wheel.
The total cost of a setup like that would be far cheaper than the equivalent for a PC rig...
But it's all just fantasy. 😄
Easy to get lost in buying stuff instead of doing.
@groovestomp I'm using a fake Facebook account with Oculus for cheap VR. I do beat saber to stay semi active during covid too.
I have Alienware m17 laptop, before I had an OK computer running RTX 2700 SUPER or was it 2800? Well, whatever was the second best RTX in 2019.
I don't know how would I approach any of this if I had to run Linux as a host system though.
@jonn In my experience, I generally don't consider too much.
I have a System76 Oryx Pro.
- 32 GB RAM
- Intel Core I7-7700HQ
- Geforce GTX 1070 Mobile
No RTX beast; but it is good and has handled everything I've thrown at it so far.
I just check game compatibility on ProtonDB.com and then use the Proton compatibility layer through Steam. Usually there are no issues.
We live in a wondrous time!
@groovestomp yea, I can't find it, but the idea is that if you initiate a drift, countersteer and don't apply input, you'll keep going with a speed similar to your speed of approach, whereas if you start sliding and as you do that, you keep pointing into the apex (without / with less countersteer), you'll slow down more and make the rear of the car draw a wider arc than the front. Now if you're on gravel, while doing so you'll keep getting pushed forward which can help...